Bahrain

I wake up as the plane is landing in Bahrain. My ears are delighted to hear Arabic again. I always liked that language…It’s 3:30 am and immigration officers are slow and sleepy-not many people arrived at this ungodly hour. They ask me how long I intend to stay in Bahrain. Three days I reply. Are you sure? I’m positive-I need to be in Beirut on Saturday. Ok, then-here’s your visa for 4 days-just in case-they say. I find it amusing…

My dear friend Noof meets me at the airport.  She takes me to her her family’s house-huge and beautifully decorated in Arabic style. We chat in the kitchen for the next couple of hours and go to sleep when roosters wake up the rest of the world. I haven’t heard so many roosters for a while now-again, delight to my ears…

Around noon we gather ourselves and set off to see the city. My first impression is, that everything is sooo big-streets, cars, houses…add to that Papa John’s and Dunkin’ Donuts and it strangely resembles…America…

Noof took me for a drink to an Arts Centre called La Fontaine. It is a privately  owned space that hosts exhibitions, intimate music concerts and other cultural events. There is a small café but rather large outdoor space allows for wedding receptions in a very romantic setting. When I saw an open space, I immediately imagined an outdoor theatre production…my mind started playing where I could have my audience…too bad it’s so far away from where I live…What’s really cool about this space is that there is a spa on the roof! Elegantly decorated with gentle lights, it features massage rooms, hair styling chairs and a pool with inviting furniture around.  Experience an arts event, go to the spa, have a light lunch-all in one place-pretty much in the middle of the city!

Our next stop is a modern, huge space of a National Theatre. Located by the sea, again, with a gorgeous outdoor space in front that captures my imagination. As we enter the building, we see an exhibition of contemporary visual arts featuring works of mostly Arab artists. Some works are really captivating…

What strikes me is that we are the only two females there. There are also several other men seeing the exhibition. I want to see a theatre space but the two men that work there say it isn’t allowed…No particular reason-nothing was happening there…Not allowed! We leave somewhat disappointed. 

Next day we go to the amazing Bahrain International Circuit where the first Formula I Grand Prix held in the Middle East took place in 2004 . The race is next month but there is some Expo there and Noof’s friend who works there invites us for some traditional cultural entertainment that run along the expo. We are greeted with traditional Karak tea that I’m crazy about now. It’s a strong black tea boiled with cardamom, saffron and evaporated milk. Delicious! Live music with dances, very skilled crafters with their beautiful products, a man with his gorgeous, white hawk-these are only some of the attractions. A woman grabs my hand gently and offers to paint henna on it. I’m delighted-she’s so talented-within five minutes she creates a really nice design-it will last for almost two weeks! As we leave the main area we see several women cooking something in a little nook outside. Street food is by far the best way to taste local cuisine. The women offer their specialties generously. 

Later in the evening we meet with Noof’s friend in a restaurant that serves food that is a blend of Indian and Bahraini specialties. The décor is fabulous-my style all the way. The two women order variety of food (I’m in love with a small vegetable- okra) and we spend fascinating evening discussing geopolitical situation in the region, economy, arts and equality among other subjects. 

Equality is a subject that will come back during my whole stay in the Middle East. As I’m listening to Noof and her friend I cannot help but thinking that if only women ruled the country (ok, I’m being irrational here-if more women were in the government) the country would thrive. It seems as though there is no strategic planning within the government to actually use great resources the country has in order for people to access arts, good jobs…There is no support for people with disabilities and their families-not because the country cannot afford it but because there is no one to actually demand it! There is little public awareness about disabilities of all sorts; children with Down syndrome go to school together with children with autism (if at all!) I’ve heard stories of a married couple (both are doctors) who keep their four year old child locked in the top floor of their house… a young woman cannot find a dentist who would treat her mentally disabled brother…The country with money that could afford state of the art facilities for people with disabilities, who could hire the best teachers, therapists and doctors does not do it because…what is needed first is a public awareness campaign, educating the society that equality is not just an empty word.
On our way back home we stop at the gas station. It costs around £6 for a tank full of gas for a medium size car…


The next day another Noof’s friend invites us to her home for lunch. More amazing food! I like how living rooms in Arab houses have several sofas opposite each other…We plan to go shopping to a more traditional (although rather modern souk). Before we leave, the women burn some herbs and use the smoke as a sort of perfume. My hair smell really nice…We arrive at the market. Tiny stores with gold lure people in. I’m not a huge fan of gold but the craftsmanship of the jewellers is impressive! It seems like gold plays an important part in Bahraini customs and culture-there are pieces of jewellery that are used for brides (so heavy and therefore expensive) that are being hired for the occasions…
I buy a traditional dress (I’m wearing it now in Spain-yesterday in Granada, people were looking at me like I was part of the attraction:-)
The evening ends with more karak and talks till very, very late…

I spend the next morning chatting to Noof’s parents while she prepares food for the whole family that will arrive for lunch later. More talks about politics, past and future, arts and education-we agree that it’s the key to a better future-everywhere! Noof’s dad asks me about former Polish president Lecha Walesa. I must say, wherever I go Walesa is known and respected…I’m asked if Walesa stayed true to his initial ideals since 1989 when communism in Poland was broken. I think for a while and arrive at the conclusion that he actually did. He’s changed, the world has changed, Poland has changed and yet he is still faithful to his ideals…That is admirable in today’s world of politics…

I’m enjoying spending the time with Noof’s large family-they are happy, generous and intelligent people-I’ve learned so much from them and have so much admiration for Arab women…

I’m heading towards the airport. I hope to come back here one day-perhaps with a theatre production-insha Allah!  It’s 2 am and I’m saying goodbye to Noof. It’s always great to see an old friend. Neither time nor distance matters in friendship.

Thank you Noof for your hospitality, kindness and humor!